wall designing

how to remove wallpaper

Removing wallpaper can be a daunting task, especially if you are dealing with a large room that is papered from top to bottom. The task can be made easier, however, by following a few of these tricks:

1. Assess the situation. If the wallpaper has been on the walls for 30 years, it will indeed be more difficult to remove than wallpaper that is only a few years old. For ancient wallpaper, plan to spend some extra time and effort on getting it removed.
2. Head to the nearest home improvement store. There are two basic ways to remove wallpaper efficiently: by using wallpaper remover chemicals or by using a wallpaper steamer (you can also use a combination of both). In either case, you will need to purchase the proper supplies. For either job, it is highly recommended that you also purchase a wallpaper scoring tool, which is a tool that will score small holes in the wallpaper, thereby allowing the chemicals or steam to penetrate under the wallpaper and loosen the glue. You will also want to purchase a scraping tool to help lift off the wallpaper pieces as they become loose -- a putty knife can also work.Once you have purchased your supplies, you can begin the process by scoring the wallpaper. Use the scoring tool by rubbing it in a circular motion all over the wallpaper. You will see tiny holes begin to appear
   
3. If you have opted to use wallpaper removal chemicals such as a wallpaper stripper then you can apply the stripper to the wall once you have thoroughly scored the wallpaper. Allow the stripper to set on the wall for the recommended amount of time as per the bottle's directions. Keep in mind that wallpaper stripping chemicals are very potent, so be sure to use them in a well-ventilated room with all of the windows open.
4. If you have opted to use a wallpaper steamer, fill the steamer with water and allow it to heat up. You will see steam coming out of the top of the steamer once it is hot enough. Press the steamer nozzle on the wall and let the steam moisten the wallpaper. The hot steam will loosen the glue and the wallpaper should begin to peel off quite easily.
5. With either of these methods, use your scraping tool to help peel the wallpaper off. You will find that some sections will peel away quite nicely, while other sections will need to be scraped a little bit harder. Be careful when using the scraping tool, and if you find that you have nicked the drywall while scraping it, you should apply some spackle to the area after you are finished.
6. try it .............good luck
   

HOW TO MAKE A FLORAL CENTER PIECE

If you've ever gone shopping for a floral centerpiece, you probably found yourself staring at the price tag in disbelief. High prices aside, they are still beautiful creations that make any table setting appealing. Before you splurge and purchase a floral centerpiece, why not try your hand at the craft? All you need is a few flowers, ribbon and some imagination and you'll be able to create just about anything you can think of it at a much lower price. Follow these easy steps below to create your very own floral centerpiece.
You'll need:
A basket
Floral foam / sponge
Greenery (evergreen stems)
A bunch of flowers of your choice (carnations, orchids, roses.....)
Ribbon
Glue gun and glue
Scissors
Glitter (optional)
Water mister
Clean out the basket. Line the corners and edges with ribbon, making sure to tuck or hide the edges using glue. You want a streamlined, seamless look.
Trim the floral foam or sponge to fit inside the basket. Place it inside the basket, using hot glue to secure it o the bottom of the basket. If you find that it is much smaller than the basket, fill any gaps with extra pieces of foam or perhaps some clear cellophane. You want to make sure that the foam is secured and won't move.
Next you'll arrange the flowers in the foam. Generally, taller flowers are placed to the middle and the side of an arrangement and smaller, shorter flowers are placed at the front. This ensures that no flower goes unseen. Your arrangement should look like it ascends from low to high starting from the front of the piece to the middle, and then drops down again on the other side. (You might compare the shape to the top half of a football!) Roses are quite popular and are generally placed nearer to the front of an arrangement. Likewise, greenery is used mostly as filler and is generally kept to the sides and bottom of an arrangement. You'll have to cut the stems of each flower to fit, and then simply slide them into the foam. It should grip the stem of the flower, holding it in place. Avoid any blank spots or empty areas in your arrangements. Use greenery or other flowers as fillers. Your finished arrangement should be attractive from all sides, with no gaps or clumps of similar flowers.
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You may wish to add some glitter to your centerpiece if you are decorating for a celebration. Simply sprinkle glitter lightly over the entire piece. Don't use too much, as it will overpower the beauty of the fresh flowers.
The final step us misting the flowers with water. This will bring out their freshness and add a little shine.
That's all there is to it. With a little time, patience and creativity, you can create a beautiful, low-cost floral centerpiece that will brighten up any room

GROUTING THE TILES

Grouting is the second to last step in the process of do-it-yourself tiling. It is also the messiest part of the job. Grout is the material that is visible between tiles on a floor, backsplash, in a bathroom, etc. It fills the space between the tiles and supports them-almost like glue. Here are some tips on how to grout your tiling project.

Types of Grout: There are three main types of grout-cement based, epoxy-based, and furan resin grouts. Of these, there are two main categories-sanded and non-sanded. Sanded grouts are used for 1/8" or larger joints, and non-sanded grouts are used for joints smaller than or equal to 1/8" (you get away with using both kinds for 1/8" joints).
Cement-Based Grout. Cement-based grout can be found in sanded and non-sanded varieties, in powder form or pre-mixed. It is used most often for do-it-yourself projects. It is weaker than epoxy grout, but it is easier to work with (and clean).
Furan Resin Grout. This type of grout is available in sanded and unsanded varieties. Instead of containing water, its base is alcohol. Because of this, it has a very high resistance to chemicals. However, it usually only comes in black and requires not only coating the tiles with wax prior to application but also removing the excess grout through steam cleaning. For these reasons, it is not the most practical choice for a do-it-yourself project.
Epoxy Grout. Epoxy grout is more expensive than other types of grouts, and is water resistant. These grouts are very effective for tiles that require a high degree of water and stain resistance (such as countertops).
Other Types of Grout: Latex-Modified Sanded Cement Grout. This grout is the similar to cement group, but has an added degree of water resistance and bonding characteristics which makes it great for bathrooms, countertops and backsplashes that might be exposed to lots of moisture.
Other Types of Grout: Caulking Grout. This grout is squeezed from a tube by hand or from a caulking gun. These grouts match, very closely, the colors of cement brands and are great for filling tough-to-reach joints.
Color: Decide What Type Of Look You Want To Create. Light colored grouts highlight the color in the dominant tiles, while darker colored grouts with lighter tiles accentuate the geometric pattern of your design. Darker grouts are good for hiding dirt (kitchen floors) while lighter grouts tend to show grime.
Pre-Grouting: Allow Adhesives Time To Cure. Each type of adhesive has a different curing time. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for allowing adhesives time to cure prior to grouting.
Pre-Grouting: Clean Joints. Remove any excessive adhesive with a razor blade prior to grouting.

Pre-Grouting: Moist or Dry? Depending on what type of grout you will be using, you may need to moisten the joints. Read the manufacturer's label for guidance.
Application: Rubber Float: Apply the grout to the tiled surface using a hard rubber grout float at a 45 degree angle. This forces the grout into the joint. Although you should do the entire application at once (to keep consistency of grout color), try to work in a small area, complete it, and move to another. 2-4 square feet is a good space to focus and finish before moving onto the next area.
Application: Mold Grout. The grout cures once it is applied, so while it is still workable, tool it into the joints. The grout will take a putty-like consistency that will allow you to work it into the joints that need some extra shaping and or filling.
Have a Plan. Make sure you form a plan for large projects such as a floor. Develop a plan to grout the floor so that you do not have to walk across newly grouted joints.
Preliminary Cleaning: Using The Edge. As you use the float, skim the excess grout off with the edge of the tool. Do not dig into the joints, but rather, clean the surface. This will aid in the next series of clean-ups.
Secondary Cleaning: Sponge-Off: Read the manufacturer's label to make sure that it is okay to use a moist surface to wipe the tile as the grout is setting. In most cases, it will be.
Wait. Let the tile sit for the recommended time. The curing process is very important and you do not want to disturb it.
Seal. For most grout types, you will need to seal the joints. Make sure you are using the proper sealing product for the project-always refer to the grout manufacturer's label. Seal the joints with two applications. Make sure you wipe away any drips off the tile, as some tile will be sensitive to this substance.

Final Cleaning: Dry White Cloth. You will now need to remove the "haze" that you see all over your tiled masterpiece. Using a dry, white cloth, rub the lingering haze off the tile. Now that the grout is sealed, you may use water on any tough spots that remain. If there is stubborn residue, use a fiber abrasive pad.
Grouting is not a very difficult task as long as you have the proper tools and pay attention to what the manufacturer's label is telling you for cure times, sealant types, etc. Make sure you properly cover any area that you do not want to get dirty (countertops if you are working on a backsplash) because grouting is MESSY! Clean-up your tools, buckets and work area before the grout sets-it will save you a lot of energy and time. Good luck!